Goldwin presented its experimental new project “GOLDWIN 0” on its digital platform at the Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO AW22 collection.
Having a history of over 70 years, Goldwin has continued to deal with sports such as skiing since its establishment and has created a variety of clothing that allows people to connect and integrate with nature.
The newly launched “GOLDWIN 0” removed boundaries of categories and lines, and consists of highly functional women's and men's collections.
There will be no limited-time capsule collections or collaborations but focusing on nature, science, and technology, this project pursues sustainable design and the timeless beauty with highest quality.
The color palette, silhouettes and fabric details take cues from the Earth, such as the padded vests inspired by butterfly wings and the packable parkas by leaf veins.
The lineup also includes knitwear made of natural wool that can regulate moisture, temperature, and odor, respecting the Godwin tradition of ski knitwear.
Also, the element of “sustainability”, which is essential today, is one of the central elements of this project.
The company's innovative efforts to coexist with the global environment are attracting attention as well, including the careful selection of materials that minimize environmental impact, and the planned development of items that will be the first in the world to use advanced domestic technologies such as ‘WHOLE GARMENT’ and new materials from Spiber, including ‘Brewed Protein™’.
The UK-based design unit OK-RM participates in the creative direction.
Its design work ranges from concept-making to identity development, creating organic communication. A film that became the first release of this project was also produced in collaboration with OK-RM.
This time, Lula Japan conducted an interview along with the announcement of this project.
We asked Julia Rodowicz and Jean-Luc Ambridge, the new designers, about their thoughts on this project, the way fashion should coexist with the global environment, and their vision for the future.
You released a film in collaboration with “OK-RM”.
Could you tell us why you decided to unveil the first collection at digital platform?
What kind of discussions did you have with them in the creation process, and what were you thoroughly particular about?
Julia：We shared the thinking behind “GOLDWIN 0” - our goals, inspirations and design process.
By commissioning various artists, OK-RM created a visual language to convey our journey to the world.
Jean-Luc：We decided to release on a digital platform as COVID-19 has unfortunately made it incredibly difficult to travel and it doesn’t feel right presenting in a space during a global pandemic.
Regarding discussions during the creative process, we’ve all been incredibly engaged and constantly communicating since this project inception.
I think the key aspects we were trying to portray is that “GOLDWIN 0” is a conversation and a journey.
It could only have happened through such an amazing team from different backgrounds, and we will always be striving for something better.
Communicating through this film was incredibly important to us.
What was the most difficult part in the way of making the project come true?
Julia：Working remotely because of the pandemic and not being able to visit our manufacturers.
Jean-Luc：I think the most difficult part of the project is sourcing materials that meet our requirements both environmentally and functionally.
There is still a lot of room in the market for more choice and opportunities.
What made you both be conscious of sustainability?
Julia：We all need to adopt a responsible attitude in the face of climate change.
There is no planet B.
Jean-Luc：I’ve always been conscious of sustainability.
My Parents are landscape architects and they’ve always been activist for re-wilding the cities and reducing the global impact on the environment.
I think the people worldwide are getting more and more interested in the environment, however “Sustainable fashion” still seems to be a vague and difficult to describe.
If you define the word simply, how would you answer the question?
Also, what message would you like to bring through this project.
Julia：To use recycled material and to recycle a garment when it can no longer serve is to manifest respect for the resources used to create it.
We want to better ourselves as designers and manufacturers by constantly reducing the impact of our product on the environment.
We hope to inspire other brands to do the same.
We want to involve our customers by offering to repair and recycle their garments.
Jean-Luc：I think sustainable fashion is almost an oxymoron.
It is always better to not produce.
However, people do need clothes, and developing technology and ideologies that progress the industry is a great start.
Could you tell me if there are any challenges that you face when working on sustainable creations?
Julia：We want our products to be created in a responsible way but we need not to compromise their function.
This sometimes means it will be challenging to recycle the garments, but we like a challenge.
Jean-Luc：The main challenges we face is being at the forefront of an emerging industry and this creates less options in the development process.
What do you want to challenge for the next step?
Please tell us your vision for the future.
Julia：Producing less, consuming smarter.
At “GOLDWIN 0”, we create functional garments that last.
Ultimately, this means living in greater harmony with the earth, its ecosystem, our fellow humans, and all living creatures.
Jean-Luc：For the next steps, we want to not only look at the production process but delve further into the recycling and longevity of the products.
Sustainability is not about ethical production and the forgetting about the garment.
It is about developing entire systems that can create circularity.
Julia Rodowicz：
Born in Poland. After studying fashion design at the clothing school Studio Berçot in Paris, she began her career as a knitwear designer for “BALENCIAGA”.
Since then, she has been designing for various brands including luxury brands such as “CALVIN KLEIN”, “LEMAIRE”, and “LANVIN”.
She has deep knowledge of knitwear from her experience working with knit industries in Italy, France, China, Japan, and the U.S., and has also been involved in product development using ‘WHOLEGARMENT’.
She studies traditional knitwear from all over the world and tries to design innovative, functional, environmentally friendly, and comfortable garments while respecting traditional techniques.
Jean-Luc Ambridge：
Born in England, studied design at Goldsmiths, University of London.
He designs in diverse means of expression, from graphics to woodworking and speculative design.
In recent years, he has shifted his activities to apparel, providing designs for brands in a wide range of areas including sports, outdoor, and fashion. He excels at development of apparel designs on digital platforms and is exploring the future of garment design by utilizing a variety of technologies.
