Goldwin presented its experimental new project “GOLDWIN 0” on its digital platform at the Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO AW22 collection.
Having a history of over 70 years, Goldwin has continued to deal with sports such as skiing since its establishment and has created a variety of clothing that allows people to connect and integrate with nature.
The newly launched “GOLDWIN 0” removed boundaries of categories and lines, and consists of highly functional women's and men's collections.
There will be no limited-time capsule collections or collaborations but focusing on nature, science, and technology, this project pursues sustainable design and the timeless beauty with highest quality.
The color palette, silhouettes and fabric details take cues from the Earth, such as the padded vests inspired by butterfly wings and the packable parkas by leaf veins.
The lineup also includes knitwear made of natural wool that can regulate moisture, temperature, and odor, respecting the Godwin tradition of ski knitwear.
Also, the element of “sustainability”, which is essential today, is one of the central elements of this project.
The company's innovative efforts to coexist with the global environment are attracting attention as well, including the careful selection of materials that minimize environmental impact, and the planned development of items that will be the first in the world to use advanced domestic technologies such as ‘WHOLE GARMENT’ and new materials from Spiber, including ‘Brewed Protein™’.
The UK-based design unit OK-RM participates in the creative direction.
Its design work ranges from concept-making to identity development, creating organic communication. A film that became the first release of this project was also produced in collaboration with OK-RM.
This time, Lula Japan conducted an interview along with the announcement of this project.
We asked Julia Rodowicz and Jean-Luc Ambridge, the new designers, about their thoughts on this project, the way fashion should coexist with the global environment, and their vision for the future.
First, please tell us the overview of the new project “GOLDWIN 0”.
Julia：While aiming at producing less but producing better, “GOLDWIN 0” is an attempt at creating a perfect wardrobe that would fit into a cabin luggage to accompany the wearer through both the urban jungle and the great outdoors.
Jean-Luc：For me “GOLDWIN 0” is about the development of sustainable garments and striving to create a benchmark within the industry to put less strain on the planet, whilst creating garments that enhance the wearers experience of multiple environments and terrains.
You both have different backgrounds.
How were you come to be involved in this project?
Julia：With a background in luxury knitwear, I was called upon to revive Goldwin’s heritage as a knitter and participate in creating a new identity and product range, using the most advanced technologies.
Jean-Luc：I became involved in this project through Godwin’s global creative director.
He’d known of my work for a while and reached out to me to see if this would be a good fit.
Fortunately, all of our ideas aligned and I’m so happy we’re all working together.
What were the most important points you worked on for this collection based on your respective experiences?
Julia：I have a particular passion and respect for ‘WHOLE GARMENT’ developed by SHIMA SEIKI with whom I had the chance to work hand in hand in the past to better understand their technology.
Entirely seamless garments with outstanding 3D shaping and engineered details mean greater comfort and freedom of movement for the wearer in addition to the garment fitting perfectly and having a beautiful volume.
With ‘WHOLE GARMENT’ there is zero waste as no cutting and assembling is required - the garment is knitted as a whole.
Jean-Luc：I think for me the biggest details in the design process was balancing the functionality Goldwin is known for with the sustainability we are striving to achieve.
There is a fine balancing act between function and the environment at the moment, and we’re hoping this project will move the industry to develop new and improved materials.
Could you tell us what points of the collection you personally like the most?
Julia：I love how you can create a layered look with the warm, emotional knits and the high-function outerwear - a sophisticated silhouette that works and looks great in different environments, from mountain slopes to city.
Jean-Luc：Regarding my favorite points of the collection.
The opportunity to work with Spiber and some of their materials is really incredible.
Having access to such an amazing technology and seeing its potential use gives me a lot of hope for the future.
You have taken inspiration from the earth and nature, which is reflected in color palette, silhouettes, and fabric details etc.
Could you tell us the story that was behind the theme?
Julia：In our design process, we investigate our relationship to nature, we are humbled by the elements and inspired by the harsh environment and exquisite beauty of the mountains of Toyama where Goldwin was born.
Jean-Luc：During our initial workshops for the project we placed a lot of emphasis on harmony with nature and the environment.
These garments are supposed to aid and enhance a person spending time in nature whilst limiting the amount of damage during the production process.
As a result of this, it made sense to pay homage through the color palette and design details.
Some of the items in this collection are inspired by butterfly wings and leaf veins.
Are there any other motifs you would like to try for the next?
Julia：We will keep on exploring the sacred geometry of the patterns that Mother Earth creates.
Jean-Luc：I think throughout the process and continuous research we will subconsciously implement motives and details from the natural world.
For our future collections we are maintaining the same philosophy, but currently I don’t have any specific motif inspirations.
Everything is inspired by nature to some degree and we want create harmony with the ergonomics of the human body.
Julia Rodowicz：
Born in Poland. After studying fashion design at the clothing school Studio Berçot in Paris, she began her career as a knitwear designer for “BALENCIAGA”.
Since then, she has been designing for various brands including luxury brands such as “CALVIN KLEIN”, “LEMAIRE”, and “LANVIN”.
She has deep knowledge of knitwear from her experience working with knit industries in Italy, France, China, Japan, and the U.S., and has also been involved in product development using ‘WHOLEGARMENT’.
She studies traditional knitwear from all over the world and tries to design innovative, functional, environmentally friendly, and comfortable garments while respecting traditional techniques.
Jean-Luc Ambridge：
Born in England, studied design at Goldsmiths, University of London.
He designs in diverse means of expression, from graphics to woodworking and speculative design.
In recent years, he has shifted his activities to apparel, providing designs for brands in a wide range of areas including sports, outdoor, and fashion. He excels at development of apparel designs on digital platforms and is exploring the future of garment design by utilizing a variety of technologies.
